Gardening in Armidale and New England
Image: Camellia sasanqua 'Moonshadow" almostedenplants.com
Success in your garden will depend on many factors such as your soil, the aspect of the garden, how much shade/sun the garden receives, the time and effort you have available to commit to your garden and last, but not least, the vagaries of our New England climate.
Establishing a micro-climate for your garden (and the various parts of it) must be a fundamental aim. Between various parts of Armidale, temperatures may vary by five degrees or more – the difference between a frost and no frost! Differences in the degree of frost can be quite marked. Within Armidale, the most severe frosts are experienced around the creek area, whereas the higher areas of town often fare better. Late frosts can occur up to mid-November and can return as early as March. This shorter growing season can cause problems for strong plant growth and development and can create difficulties in the growing of frost-tender plants such as beans, tomatoes, melons and many annuals.
If possible, seek the advice of neighbours when planning your garden or walk around your area and see what grows well there. Our climate is ideal for the various deciduous trees and shrubs which provide a range of beautiful colours in autumn. Spring-flowering bulbs, shrubs and trees add to the beauty of our region.
Members of the Armidale Garden Club, who are used to the extremes of the New England climate, are always happy to share their gardening experiences.
Image: Camellia sasanqua 'Moonshadow" almostedenplants.com
Success in your garden will depend on many factors such as your soil, the aspect of the garden, how much shade/sun the garden receives, the time and effort you have available to commit to your garden and last, but not least, the vagaries of our New England climate.
Establishing a micro-climate for your garden (and the various parts of it) must be a fundamental aim. Between various parts of Armidale, temperatures may vary by five degrees or more – the difference between a frost and no frost! Differences in the degree of frost can be quite marked. Within Armidale, the most severe frosts are experienced around the creek area, whereas the higher areas of town often fare better. Late frosts can occur up to mid-November and can return as early as March. This shorter growing season can cause problems for strong plant growth and development and can create difficulties in the growing of frost-tender plants such as beans, tomatoes, melons and many annuals.
If possible, seek the advice of neighbours when planning your garden or walk around your area and see what grows well there. Our climate is ideal for the various deciduous trees and shrubs which provide a range of beautiful colours in autumn. Spring-flowering bulbs, shrubs and trees add to the beauty of our region.
Members of the Armidale Garden Club, who are used to the extremes of the New England climate, are always happy to share their gardening experiences.
Power Feed your vegetable garden ready for spring planting.
Prepare the soil well before planting. Try our Power Soil recipe and give the warm season vegetable patch a big boost before seedlings go in. For every square metre of your kitchen garden mix up the following: one handful of blood and bone, one handful of potash, half a bag of cow manure, one shovel of homemade compost, one handful of Dynamic Lifter, a sprinkle of dolomite or garden lime, rock minerals as per packet directions, and Eco-hydrate or Wettasoil as per packet directions.
Dig in then get ready for take off!
Prepare the soil well before planting. Try our Power Soil recipe and give the warm season vegetable patch a big boost before seedlings go in. For every square metre of your kitchen garden mix up the following: one handful of blood and bone, one handful of potash, half a bag of cow manure, one shovel of homemade compost, one handful of Dynamic Lifter, a sprinkle of dolomite or garden lime, rock minerals as per packet directions, and Eco-hydrate or Wettasoil as per packet directions.
Dig in then get ready for take off!
Month by Month in the Armidale Garden
This advice can be adapted for other parts of New England
This advice can be adapted for other parts of New England
JANUARY
Image: Boysenberries http://www.specialtyproduce.com/
1 Remove overgrown shoots from cotoneasters, pyracantha, abelia, photinia, buddleia, etc.
2 Remove fruited canes from boysenberries, youngberries, etc up to the end of March and train new shoots.
3 Mulch camellias, rhododendrons, daphne, liliums, etc and keep well watered. Well rotted compost makes a good mulch.
4 Continue deep-watering rotation for trees and shrubs started in October – several hours soaking once a month or fortnightly if the weather is hot and dry.
5 Order bulbs for autumn planting.
6 Stake and tie dahlias, tomatoes, climbing beans, etc.
7 Cut back dead heads of shasta daisies, achillea, perennial aster and gerbera, to get a second flush of flowers. 6
8 Sow carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, sprouts, silver beet, swede turnip and summer lettuce varieties until mid-February.
9 Watch out for fruit fly in peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots, tomatoes.
10 Watch out for red spider mite on many vegetables such as beans, peas tomatoes, etc and also on roses, geraniums and all fruit trees. Spray should be applied under the leaves.
11 Hilling late-sown potatoes helps control potato moth.
12 Sow Stock seed from the last week in January to the first week in February for spring-flowering.
13 This is the last month for sowing peas – up until Australia Day.
14 Check for callistemon sawfly and spray as necessary.
Image: Boysenberries http://www.specialtyproduce.com/
1 Remove overgrown shoots from cotoneasters, pyracantha, abelia, photinia, buddleia, etc.
2 Remove fruited canes from boysenberries, youngberries, etc up to the end of March and train new shoots.
3 Mulch camellias, rhododendrons, daphne, liliums, etc and keep well watered. Well rotted compost makes a good mulch.
4 Continue deep-watering rotation for trees and shrubs started in October – several hours soaking once a month or fortnightly if the weather is hot and dry.
5 Order bulbs for autumn planting.
6 Stake and tie dahlias, tomatoes, climbing beans, etc.
7 Cut back dead heads of shasta daisies, achillea, perennial aster and gerbera, to get a second flush of flowers. 6
8 Sow carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, sprouts, silver beet, swede turnip and summer lettuce varieties until mid-February.
9 Watch out for fruit fly in peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots, tomatoes.
10 Watch out for red spider mite on many vegetables such as beans, peas tomatoes, etc and also on roses, geraniums and all fruit trees. Spray should be applied under the leaves.
11 Hilling late-sown potatoes helps control potato moth.
12 Sow Stock seed from the last week in January to the first week in February for spring-flowering.
13 This is the last month for sowing peas – up until Australia Day.
14 Check for callistemon sawfly and spray as necessary.
FEBRUARY
Image: Carnation 'Cherries in the Snow' https://www.fiftyflowers.com
1 Prepare beds for spring-flowering bulbs to be planted from late March through to the end of April.
2 The last week of February and the first week of March is the time to plant seeds of frost-hardy annuals and perennials.
3 Divide iris towards the end of the month – when replanting do NOT cover rhizomes.
4 Lift gladioli corms from now on as foliage dies back.
5 Cut back carnations and summer annuals after flowering and prune dahlias to lengthen the flowering season.
6 Tie up new shoots of climbing roses and new canes of berry bushes to prevent wind damage.
7 Sow carrots not later than the middle of this month.
8 Plant seedlings of cabbage, cauliflower, etc.
9 Watch out for red spider mite and rust on geraniums, beans, vegetables and fruit trees. If found, apply a suitable spray.
10 Watch out also for potato moth on growing tips and spray with insecticide.
11 Onions should have been planted so they reach full maturity in mid-December; withhold water so they dry out for harvesting.
12 Continue fruit fly and codling moth sprays and fungus sprays; pick up and destroy all fallen and diseased fruit to prevent re-infestation.
13 Check for sawfly larvae on callistemon/callitris. If present, apply dust or spray.
14 Check for borers in trees and shrubs, especially wattles. Look for holes into the tree surrounded with dust and fine webbing. Use a piece of wire to poke into the hole to kill and/or remove the larvae, then squirt methylated spirits into the hole and plug with putty. It is also advisable to check regularly other susceptible trees such as albizia (silk tree).
Image: Carnation 'Cherries in the Snow' https://www.fiftyflowers.com
1 Prepare beds for spring-flowering bulbs to be planted from late March through to the end of April.
2 The last week of February and the first week of March is the time to plant seeds of frost-hardy annuals and perennials.
3 Divide iris towards the end of the month – when replanting do NOT cover rhizomes.
4 Lift gladioli corms from now on as foliage dies back.
5 Cut back carnations and summer annuals after flowering and prune dahlias to lengthen the flowering season.
6 Tie up new shoots of climbing roses and new canes of berry bushes to prevent wind damage.
7 Sow carrots not later than the middle of this month.
8 Plant seedlings of cabbage, cauliflower, etc.
9 Watch out for red spider mite and rust on geraniums, beans, vegetables and fruit trees. If found, apply a suitable spray.
10 Watch out also for potato moth on growing tips and spray with insecticide.
11 Onions should have been planted so they reach full maturity in mid-December; withhold water so they dry out for harvesting.
12 Continue fruit fly and codling moth sprays and fungus sprays; pick up and destroy all fallen and diseased fruit to prevent re-infestation.
13 Check for sawfly larvae on callistemon/callitris. If present, apply dust or spray.
14 Check for borers in trees and shrubs, especially wattles. Look for holes into the tree surrounded with dust and fine webbing. Use a piece of wire to poke into the hole to kill and/or remove the larvae, then squirt methylated spirits into the hole and plug with putty. It is also advisable to check regularly other susceptible trees such as albizia (silk tree).
MARCH
Rose 'Firestar' https://www.knightsroses.com.au/
1 Divide polyanthus and check for red spider mite damage. If found, burn any damaged leaves and spray crowns if necessary.
2 Remove spent blooms on roses and dahlias – this is an on-going task.
3 Divide liliums when leaves are quite yellow and replant by May at the latest.
4 Prepare new lawn areas for planting in early April with soft grasses. Couch should be planted in September-October.
5 Transplant strawberry runners from late March to early April.
6 Watch for cabbage butterfly and spray or dust if found.
7 If planting onions, use only early varieties.
8 Start plantings of spring-flowering bulbs.
9 Continue removal of fruited canes of boysenberries, youngberries, etc.
10 Tie up chrysanthemums.
Rose 'Firestar' https://www.knightsroses.com.au/
1 Divide polyanthus and check for red spider mite damage. If found, burn any damaged leaves and spray crowns if necessary.
2 Remove spent blooms on roses and dahlias – this is an on-going task.
3 Divide liliums when leaves are quite yellow and replant by May at the latest.
4 Prepare new lawn areas for planting in early April with soft grasses. Couch should be planted in September-October.
5 Transplant strawberry runners from late March to early April.
6 Watch for cabbage butterfly and spray or dust if found.
7 If planting onions, use only early varieties.
8 Start plantings of spring-flowering bulbs.
9 Continue removal of fruited canes of boysenberries, youngberries, etc.
10 Tie up chrysanthemums.
APRIL
Image: White Chrysanthemum http://www.chrysanthemums.org/
1 Plant sweet peas in protected areas, preferably in containers, to plant out when shot; otherwise leave them until May-June.
2 Cut back most perennials, leaving some cover until late winter to protect the crowns from frost. Reduce winter-flowering iris foliage to 20cm.
3 Do NOT cut back dahlias until the foliage dies right back.
4 Cover chrysanthemums against frost if desired.
5 After rain, top-dress lawns with sulphate of ammonia or a complete general fertiliser and water in thoroughly.
6 Plant out asparagus, rhubarb, strawberry runners or new plants. Strawberries should be planted with weed-mat or mulch. Plant early varieties of onions.
7 This is the best month to renovate or plant a new lawn – preferably the first week in April.
8 Sow seeds of hardy annuals such as iceland poppies, pinks, bellis perennis, wallflower, cornflower, hollyhock, lobelia, pansy, stock, sweet william, etc, for spring flowering.
9 Rake up autumn leaves for composting.
10 Complete plantings of spring-flowering bulbs.
Image: White Chrysanthemum http://www.chrysanthemums.org/
1 Plant sweet peas in protected areas, preferably in containers, to plant out when shot; otherwise leave them until May-June.
2 Cut back most perennials, leaving some cover until late winter to protect the crowns from frost. Reduce winter-flowering iris foliage to 20cm.
3 Do NOT cut back dahlias until the foliage dies right back.
4 Cover chrysanthemums against frost if desired.
5 After rain, top-dress lawns with sulphate of ammonia or a complete general fertiliser and water in thoroughly.
6 Plant out asparagus, rhubarb, strawberry runners or new plants. Strawberries should be planted with weed-mat or mulch. Plant early varieties of onions.
7 This is the best month to renovate or plant a new lawn – preferably the first week in April.
8 Sow seeds of hardy annuals such as iceland poppies, pinks, bellis perennis, wallflower, cornflower, hollyhock, lobelia, pansy, stock, sweet william, etc, for spring flowering.
9 Rake up autumn leaves for composting.
10 Complete plantings of spring-flowering bulbs.
MAY
Image: Maple October Glory www.dustymars.net
1 Plan requirements and order roses, shrubs and fruit trees as required.
2 The first week in May is ideal for all situations to plant out spring- and early-flowering plants: violas, poppies, pansies, bellis perennis, pinks, carnations, sweet william, etc.
3 Divide old clumps of day lilies, iris, shasta daisies, phlox and other clumping perennials – watch for snails and slugs, etc.
4 Lift dahlias, label named varieties and store in moist sand or sawdust.
5 Plant out azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, lily of the valley and summer-flowering liliums. Potted plants such as camellias may be planted out in September-October.
6 Apply well rotted manure and dig in around shrub and perennial borders.
7 Lift and store gladioli if desired.
8 Start sowing peas and winter lettuce varieties.
9 Potatoes can be dug up and stored now or left in good soil with drainage until September-October.
10 Set up compost heap with autumn leaves and lawn clippings; sprinkle layers with blood and bone and soil.
Image: Maple October Glory www.dustymars.net
1 Plan requirements and order roses, shrubs and fruit trees as required.
2 The first week in May is ideal for all situations to plant out spring- and early-flowering plants: violas, poppies, pansies, bellis perennis, pinks, carnations, sweet william, etc.
3 Divide old clumps of day lilies, iris, shasta daisies, phlox and other clumping perennials – watch for snails and slugs, etc.
4 Lift dahlias, label named varieties and store in moist sand or sawdust.
5 Plant out azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, lily of the valley and summer-flowering liliums. Potted plants such as camellias may be planted out in September-October.
6 Apply well rotted manure and dig in around shrub and perennial borders.
7 Lift and store gladioli if desired.
8 Start sowing peas and winter lettuce varieties.
9 Potatoes can be dug up and stored now or left in good soil with drainage until September-October.
10 Set up compost heap with autumn leaves and lawn clippings; sprinkle layers with blood and bone and soil.
JUNE AND JULY
Image: Pruning Fruit Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com
1 Spring-flowering bulbs should be watered only if dry conditions are experienced as they hate wet feet. Once the foliage emerges a liquid fertiliser can be applied.
2 Check shrubs and trees, especially fruit trees, for scale and apply an appropriate spray if necessary.
3 Remove old flower heads from roses and tidy up the bushes. Scale on the bushes can be treated at pruning time (see August).
4 Cut back chrysanthemums.
5 Dig over soil and leave beds in rough condition.
6 Do NOT prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees at this time.
7 Prune fruit trees – peaches, nectarines. Grapes can be pruned after leaf-fall in May.
8 Carry out a general garden clean-up, destroy hiding places for pests.
9 Plant out onion plants; 'Plant on the shortest day, harvest on the longest.' Select varieties for early maturing and good keeping qualities.
10 Start planting deciduous shrubs and trees.
Image: Pruning Fruit Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com
1 Spring-flowering bulbs should be watered only if dry conditions are experienced as they hate wet feet. Once the foliage emerges a liquid fertiliser can be applied.
2 Check shrubs and trees, especially fruit trees, for scale and apply an appropriate spray if necessary.
3 Remove old flower heads from roses and tidy up the bushes. Scale on the bushes can be treated at pruning time (see August).
4 Cut back chrysanthemums.
5 Dig over soil and leave beds in rough condition.
6 Do NOT prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees at this time.
7 Prune fruit trees – peaches, nectarines. Grapes can be pruned after leaf-fall in May.
8 Carry out a general garden clean-up, destroy hiding places for pests.
9 Plant out onion plants; 'Plant on the shortest day, harvest on the longest.' Select varieties for early maturing and good keeping qualities.
10 Start planting deciduous shrubs and trees.
AUGUST
Image: Rose pruning https://www.yates.com.au
August - contributed by Susan Cantrell
1 Prune roses from the first week of August up to the first week of September.
2 Plant new roses and other shrubs and trees.
3 Top-dress garden beds with complete fertiliser and well-rotted manure, if available. Feed daffodils with a light dressing of complete fertiliser or liquid fertiliser.
4 Top-dress lawn when soil is moist and water in.
5 Remove dead heads from winter iris.
6 Spray for leaf curl on peaches and nectarines. It is important that the spray for leaf curl be applied at bud swell – once buds begin to open it is too late.
7 Apply complete fertiliser to established shrubs and trees and water well.
8 Prune summer-flowering shrubs – abelia, buddleia, crepe myrtle, veronica, etc.
9 Hardwood cuttings of japonica, pyracantha, abelia, forsythia, tamarix, etc may be struck in sand from May to August. Cuttings can be dipped in hormone powder or honey to improve chances of good root formation.
10 Do NOT prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees, such as prunus, spiraea, japonica, pearl bush; forsythia, ribes (currants), banksia rose, etc until after flowering.
11 Divide perennials such as delphiniums, perennial phlox, michaelmas daisies, shasta daisies, heuchera, erigeron, campanula, solomon's seal, red hot poker, winter iris, etc. Avoid extremely frosty weather and water well. Do NOT leave this too late as new shoots can be damaged.
12 Plant out paeony roses and tuberose. Strike chrysanthemum cuttings in sandy loam from August to the end of October.
Image: Rose pruning https://www.yates.com.au
August - contributed by Susan Cantrell
1 Prune roses from the first week of August up to the first week of September.
2 Plant new roses and other shrubs and trees.
3 Top-dress garden beds with complete fertiliser and well-rotted manure, if available. Feed daffodils with a light dressing of complete fertiliser or liquid fertiliser.
4 Top-dress lawn when soil is moist and water in.
5 Remove dead heads from winter iris.
6 Spray for leaf curl on peaches and nectarines. It is important that the spray for leaf curl be applied at bud swell – once buds begin to open it is too late.
7 Apply complete fertiliser to established shrubs and trees and water well.
8 Prune summer-flowering shrubs – abelia, buddleia, crepe myrtle, veronica, etc.
9 Hardwood cuttings of japonica, pyracantha, abelia, forsythia, tamarix, etc may be struck in sand from May to August. Cuttings can be dipped in hormone powder or honey to improve chances of good root formation.
10 Do NOT prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees, such as prunus, spiraea, japonica, pearl bush; forsythia, ribes (currants), banksia rose, etc until after flowering.
11 Divide perennials such as delphiniums, perennial phlox, michaelmas daisies, shasta daisies, heuchera, erigeron, campanula, solomon's seal, red hot poker, winter iris, etc. Avoid extremely frosty weather and water well. Do NOT leave this too late as new shoots can be damaged.
12 Plant out paeony roses and tuberose. Strike chrysanthemum cuttings in sandy loam from August to the end of October.
SEPTEMBER
Prunus persica https://www.gardenclinic.com.au
1 Divide chrysanthemum clumps and discard old stems.
2 Prune sweet peas if desired, leaving one or two basal shoots and tie plants to supports.
3 Start planting gladioli (120 days to flowering in a good season); dip or dust corms with fungicide.
4 Water stored dahlias lightly to promote shooting, but keep sheltered from frosts.
5 Plant out delphinium and lupin seedlings (from May seed planting) – this may be done in August also.
6 Prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees (including wattles) immediately after flowering.
7 Inspect roses closely for aphids and treat if they are found. This can be done by simply hosing them off or by applying a spray.
8 Plant out onion seedlings – this can be done most months for selected varieties (see November).
Prunus persica https://www.gardenclinic.com.au
1 Divide chrysanthemum clumps and discard old stems.
2 Prune sweet peas if desired, leaving one or two basal shoots and tie plants to supports.
3 Start planting gladioli (120 days to flowering in a good season); dip or dust corms with fungicide.
4 Water stored dahlias lightly to promote shooting, but keep sheltered from frosts.
5 Plant out delphinium and lupin seedlings (from May seed planting) – this may be done in August also.
6 Prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees (including wattles) immediately after flowering.
7 Inspect roses closely for aphids and treat if they are found. This can be done by simply hosing them off or by applying a spray.
8 Plant out onion seedlings – this can be done most months for selected varieties (see November).
OCTOBER
Image: Asparagus https://www.harrisfarm.com.au
What to do in the garden in October
1 Divide and plant out dahlias when shoots appear at base of stems. Tubers themselves do not shoot as new growth comes from dormant eyes and the base of old stems. Divide tubers with part of stem attached. Dahlias other than the dwarf varieties need to be staked; it is easiest to put the stake in the hole with the tuber when planting otherwise, if staking is done later you run the risk of hammering home the stake through the tuber. Protect new growth from snails and slugs.
2 Plant out new chrysanthemum plants grown from cuttings taken earlier.
3 Plant out frost-tender annuals such as petunias, phlox and marigolds, protect against frost if forecast. In the last week of October or early November, plant out asters, zinnias, nasturtiums. Protect all of these plants against slugs and snails.
4 Stake tall-growing perennials before flower spikes lengthen.
5 Watch out for emerging liliums to avoid damage during cultivation of beds. Mulch well, keep well-watered and protect against snails and slugs.
6 Nip back shoots on carnations and geraniums to promote bushy growth. Cuttings can be taken from new wood before flowering in November.
7 Start a deep-watering programme for larger shrubs and trees – several hours soaking once a month in rotation or fortnightly if the weather is hot and dry.
8 Watch for cutworm activity. These are plump, smooth caterpillars (up to 40mm). They attack plants near the ground so that the plants fall over; young plants are particularly vulnerable. The caterpillars hide in litter or soil during the day and feed on plants at night. One method of prevention is to dig the soil thoroughly before planting to kill any hiding cutworms. They can also be controlled by digging around damaged plants. Continue war on snails and slugs, especially in the vegetable bed.
9 Chip and rake up young weeds as they appear.
10 Start plantings of sweet corn and carry out successive plantings until the end of December.
11 Transplant tomato seedlings and protect them well from frost.
12 Sow pumpkin, squash, marrow, cucumber, lettuce, celery, potatoes, beans – watch for late frosts.
13 Sow parsley, sage and other herbs.
14 Plant out seedlings of beetroot, celery, etc.
15 Finalise harvesting asparagus, leaving some shoots to sustain the crown.
Image: Asparagus https://www.harrisfarm.com.au
What to do in the garden in October
1 Divide and plant out dahlias when shoots appear at base of stems. Tubers themselves do not shoot as new growth comes from dormant eyes and the base of old stems. Divide tubers with part of stem attached. Dahlias other than the dwarf varieties need to be staked; it is easiest to put the stake in the hole with the tuber when planting otherwise, if staking is done later you run the risk of hammering home the stake through the tuber. Protect new growth from snails and slugs.
2 Plant out new chrysanthemum plants grown from cuttings taken earlier.
3 Plant out frost-tender annuals such as petunias, phlox and marigolds, protect against frost if forecast. In the last week of October or early November, plant out asters, zinnias, nasturtiums. Protect all of these plants against slugs and snails.
4 Stake tall-growing perennials before flower spikes lengthen.
5 Watch out for emerging liliums to avoid damage during cultivation of beds. Mulch well, keep well-watered and protect against snails and slugs.
6 Nip back shoots on carnations and geraniums to promote bushy growth. Cuttings can be taken from new wood before flowering in November.
7 Start a deep-watering programme for larger shrubs and trees – several hours soaking once a month in rotation or fortnightly if the weather is hot and dry.
8 Watch for cutworm activity. These are plump, smooth caterpillars (up to 40mm). They attack plants near the ground so that the plants fall over; young plants are particularly vulnerable. The caterpillars hide in litter or soil during the day and feed on plants at night. One method of prevention is to dig the soil thoroughly before planting to kill any hiding cutworms. They can also be controlled by digging around damaged plants. Continue war on snails and slugs, especially in the vegetable bed.
9 Chip and rake up young weeds as they appear.
10 Start plantings of sweet corn and carry out successive plantings until the end of December.
11 Transplant tomato seedlings and protect them well from frost.
12 Sow pumpkin, squash, marrow, cucumber, lettuce, celery, potatoes, beans – watch for late frosts.
13 Sow parsley, sage and other herbs.
14 Plant out seedlings of beetroot, celery, etc.
15 Finalise harvesting asparagus, leaving some shoots to sustain the crown.
NOVEMBER
Clematis Crystal Fountain https://www.bluestoneperennials.com
1 Take dahlia cuttings if desired.
2 Chrysanthemums: pinch out tops at 20cm (8") to give bushy growth and spray for aphids.
3 In the last week of November, plant out seedlings of summer annuals such as asters, zinnias, petunias, phlox, nasturtiums, marigolds, portulaca, verbena, coleus, mesembryanthemum, gaillardia, cockscomb, amaranthus, salvia, gazania, cosmos, etc.
4 Plant lettuce (seasonal varieties), beans, potatoes, tomatoes, parsnip, beetroot, silver beet, radish, pumpkin, squash, marrow, cucumber, sweet corn, etc, during early part of the month
5 Force lettuce with nitrogenous fertiliser and plenty of water. Protect from birds with strands of black cotton, if necessary.
6 Watch for aphids on peaches and nectarines and treat accordingly.
7 Onions may be planted out in every month but some varieties planted out too early (eg March/April) may run straight to seed in spring. Use only early varieties in March/April and later varieties can be started in spring.
8 Continue deep-watering programme rotation for trees and shrubs.
9 Set baits for snails and slugs and maintain vigilance throughout the warmer months, especially during wet or humid conditions.
10 Lawns: give regular, light applications of nitrogenous fertiliser and water well through summer. Spray with an appropriate weedicide, if necessary, for broadleaf weed control. It is a good idea to keep a separate watering can for use when applying weedicides to avoid costly errors.
11 Inspect wattles for woodmoth and other borers. (See February for treatment.)
12 By late November or into December the foliage of spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils, jonquils and tulips will have died down.. It is important NOT to remove the foliage until it has completely yellowed as nutrition has to be stored in the bulbs for next year's flowers. Dense clumps of daffodils, etc should be lifted and divided every two or three years or flower quality and quantity will deteriorate. Bulbs can be replanted straight away or cleaned off and stored in a cool, airy place till planting time. Discard all bulbs showing signs of disease.
Clematis Crystal Fountain https://www.bluestoneperennials.com
1 Take dahlia cuttings if desired.
2 Chrysanthemums: pinch out tops at 20cm (8") to give bushy growth and spray for aphids.
3 In the last week of November, plant out seedlings of summer annuals such as asters, zinnias, petunias, phlox, nasturtiums, marigolds, portulaca, verbena, coleus, mesembryanthemum, gaillardia, cockscomb, amaranthus, salvia, gazania, cosmos, etc.
4 Plant lettuce (seasonal varieties), beans, potatoes, tomatoes, parsnip, beetroot, silver beet, radish, pumpkin, squash, marrow, cucumber, sweet corn, etc, during early part of the month
5 Force lettuce with nitrogenous fertiliser and plenty of water. Protect from birds with strands of black cotton, if necessary.
6 Watch for aphids on peaches and nectarines and treat accordingly.
7 Onions may be planted out in every month but some varieties planted out too early (eg March/April) may run straight to seed in spring. Use only early varieties in March/April and later varieties can be started in spring.
8 Continue deep-watering programme rotation for trees and shrubs.
9 Set baits for snails and slugs and maintain vigilance throughout the warmer months, especially during wet or humid conditions.
10 Lawns: give regular, light applications of nitrogenous fertiliser and water well through summer. Spray with an appropriate weedicide, if necessary, for broadleaf weed control. It is a good idea to keep a separate watering can for use when applying weedicides to avoid costly errors.
11 Inspect wattles for woodmoth and other borers. (See February for treatment.)
12 By late November or into December the foliage of spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils, jonquils and tulips will have died down.. It is important NOT to remove the foliage until it has completely yellowed as nutrition has to be stored in the bulbs for next year's flowers. Dense clumps of daffodils, etc should be lifted and divided every two or three years or flower quality and quantity will deteriorate. Bulbs can be replanted straight away or cleaned off and stored in a cool, airy place till planting time. Discard all bulbs showing signs of disease.
DECEMBER
Image: Tomatoes https://www.organicfacts.net/
1 Plant gladioli if required for late blooms. Corms will need to have been kept in cool conditions (refrigerator crisper drawer) to prevent growth. Late gladioli need constant spraying against attack by thrips (a small insect which lays eggs inside the plant tissue where the pupae feed, including unopened buds).
2 Seedlings of late sown asters, marigolds, zinnias and bedding dahlias should be planted out early for first flowering in late February. If raising winter Stocks from seed, these should be sown in late December to get a good winter flowering.
3 Continue successive plantings of beans, sweet corn and seasonal lettuce.
4 Start successive plantings of cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, sprouts.
5 Mulch all beds to conserve moisture; arrange deep-watering rotation for trees and shrubs.
6 Continue vigilance against snails, aphids, fruit fly, codling moth, mildew, black spot and all fungi such as shot hole, brown fruit rot, etc.
7 Callistemons and callitris – check for callistemon sawfly and remove by hand or use a spray. Prune as soon as flowers finish.
8 Watch out for red spider mite and thrips in hot, dry weather. Spray as necessary.
9 Prune once-flowering climbing roses such as Dorothy Perkins, Bloomfield's Courage, Paul's Scarlet, banksia rose, etc.
10 Combat cherry slug with an appropriate spray.
11 Remove strawberry runners.
Image: Tomatoes https://www.organicfacts.net/
1 Plant gladioli if required for late blooms. Corms will need to have been kept in cool conditions (refrigerator crisper drawer) to prevent growth. Late gladioli need constant spraying against attack by thrips (a small insect which lays eggs inside the plant tissue where the pupae feed, including unopened buds).
2 Seedlings of late sown asters, marigolds, zinnias and bedding dahlias should be planted out early for first flowering in late February. If raising winter Stocks from seed, these should be sown in late December to get a good winter flowering.
3 Continue successive plantings of beans, sweet corn and seasonal lettuce.
4 Start successive plantings of cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, sprouts.
5 Mulch all beds to conserve moisture; arrange deep-watering rotation for trees and shrubs.
6 Continue vigilance against snails, aphids, fruit fly, codling moth, mildew, black spot and all fungi such as shot hole, brown fruit rot, etc.
7 Callistemons and callitris – check for callistemon sawfly and remove by hand or use a spray. Prune as soon as flowers finish.
8 Watch out for red spider mite and thrips in hot, dry weather. Spray as necessary.
9 Prune once-flowering climbing roses such as Dorothy Perkins, Bloomfield's Courage, Paul's Scarlet, banksia rose, etc.
10 Combat cherry slug with an appropriate spray.
11 Remove strawberry runners.
